Our tales of Patagonia so far would probably have you thinking that the whole region is awash with luscious scenery. We were starting to believe it too, after six weeks on Chile’s Carretera Austral, with its snowcapped mountains, glaciers, fjords, forests, rivers, lakes - have we missed anything? But after we left sleepy Villa O’Higgins we were in for a series of shocks.
I was reminded of the age-old saying in this part of the world: “Quien se apura en Patagonia pierde su tiempo” (“Those who hurry in Patagonia waste their time”). It would be about taking the rough with the smooth, trying to look on the bright side of life when the weather was foul and savouring the beautiful long summer days when they came our way.
Uspallata - Santiago Cycling through a continent as vast as South America tends to yield slow and gradual changes. However, our four-day ride up and over the Andes from Uspallata to Santiago, the capital of Chile, upset the rule book. I loved how quiet Ruta 40 was. You could count the number of passing cars on … Continue reading “IT’S NOT ABOUT 30 PESOS, IT’S ABOUT THE LAST 30 YEARS”: Cycling Paso Los Libertadores into a protesting Santiago
Despite the head winds, cycling through Argentina immediately felt easier than Bolivia. For starters, the standard of driving is much better and you can drink the tap water. You also know that every town you pass through has a campsite or hotel with hot water, a well-stocked tienda, a panadería with actual fresh bread and pastries, and an heladería with numerous flavours of ice cream to choose from.
How we got to the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, and how we crossed it. All by bike.
Anyone who knows me knows I love playing golf. Before setting off on our trip I was considering taking my clubs along for the ride, with the hope of playing as many golf courses as possible in South America. That plan didn’t materialise and probably for the best. Nevertheless, I jumped at the opportunity to … Continue reading La Paz Golf Club
Our attempt at the "Camino del Puma", and what happened next.
Week 5: Toulouse to Barcelona Halfway up the Col du Perthus, a gentle mountain pass in the Pyrenees, Milla and I pulled over for a drinks break. What should have been a few quick sips of water soon became a half hour debrief as we realised we were about to leave France and weren't ready … Continue reading Bienvenido a España….más vale tarde que nunca!
Weeks 1 & 2: Dunsfold to Angers, via the Normandy beaches After a Jane St Aubyn all you can eat brunch, Milla and I said our goodbyes and finally set off to Portsmouth. Milla’s cousin Richard accompanied us as far as Petersfield on his fancy road bike which he boasted he could lift with just … Continue reading Bonjour, ça va?