While the Carretera Austral provided so many visual delights from the road, even bicycles were too fast at times. So when we got a message from our cycling friend Jochen begging “pleeeeeease, hike the shit outta that place!”, we had no problem obliging. Here's a run down of all our non-wheeled misadventures.
Taking our time in Patagonia: cycling the Carretera Austral
I was reminded of the age-old saying in this part of the world: “Quien se apura en Patagonia pierde su tiempo” (“Those who hurry in Patagonia waste their time”). It would be about taking the rough with the smooth, trying to look on the bright side of life when the weather was foul and savouring the beautiful long summer days when they came our way.
“IT’S NOT ABOUT 30 PESOS, IT’S ABOUT THE LAST 30 YEARS”: Cycling Paso Los Libertadores into a protesting Santiago
Uspallata - Santiago Cycling through a continent as vast as South America tends to yield slow and gradual changes. However, our four-day ride up and over the Andes from Uspallata to Santiago, the capital of Chile, upset the rule book. I loved how quiet Ruta 40 was. You could count the number of passing cars on … Continue reading “IT’S NOT ABOUT 30 PESOS, IT’S ABOUT THE LAST 30 YEARS”: Cycling Paso Los Libertadores into a protesting Santiago
The Slow One, The Grumpy One and The Motivator
Before writing up this blog post, I looked back on my diary to remind myself of all the little details of that time. “My god”, I turned to Chillo, “I was a grumpy cow”. If you were to draw a graph of our collective mood swings that week, there would be lots of zig zags, jumping up as dramatically as they plummet down. However, after reminding myself of all the little challenges and victories along the way, I’d say the overall trajectory would most definitely be an upwards one.
Bye bye, Bolivia
Our last couple of weeks in Bolivia - ghost towns, canyons and dodgy wine
A series of unfortunate events
Our trip so far has had the odd setback, and generally we're always able to find positives and come out better the other side. But there are bound to be some days that really put you through the ringer. The day we did the "Death Road" was one of those. Not, as you might imagine, … Continue reading A series of unfortunate events
La Paz Golf Club
Anyone who knows me knows I love playing golf. Before setting off on our trip I was considering taking my clubs along for the ride, with the hope of playing as many golf courses as possible in South America. That plan didn’t materialise and probably for the best. Nevertheless, I jumped at the opportunity to … Continue reading La Paz Golf Club
That classic traveller's tale of stumbling across a special moment with "the locals" My stomach was rumbling and all I could think about was pedalling as hard as I could to the next town, in the hope there would be a “comedor” selling some form of chicken and rice. I’m not a good cyclist on … Continue reading Donde estamos?
The Priest and the Reporter
Our attempt at the "Camino del Puma", and what happened next.
Birthdays, rest days and BIG cycling days
Week 3: Angers to Poitiers I don't think there's a better way to start a (birthday) day's cycling than in newly-laundered clothes, freshly showered, fuelled by half a loaf of brioche (chased down by the obligatory pain au chocolat), and singing along to your favourite musicals obnoxiously loudly while bombing along a river path. But … Continue reading Birthdays, rest days and BIG cycling days
Race to the start
Sunday 14th April 2019. The Grand Départ has finally arrived. The day we have been leading up to for several months. The past month has been hectic - finishing our jobs, moving out of our flat in Kentish Town and packing up our lives into 4 panniers each - but we’re here now and ready … Continue reading Race to the start